Dormant Season Fruit Tree Pruning
Each month, we share expert-led training sessions to help community orchard stewards grow and care for thriving fruit trees. On this page, you’ll find a recorded workshop, a summary of key takeaways, and additional resources to deepen your knowledge. Be sure to explore past workshops for even more insights into urban orcharding best practices!
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Learn how to keep your fruit trees healthy and productive year after year with our Dormant Season Pruning Workshop! In this informative session, Ryan from The Giving Grove team shares expert insights on the best practices for pruning fruit trees during the dormant season. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced grower, this workshop will help you understand the fundamentals of pruning to enhance fruit development and maintain tree health.
Overall Pruning Guidelines:
It’s Better to Prune Than to Not: Unpruned trees don’t have proper airflow are are prone to disease and uneven fruiting patterns; dormant pruning also triggers the growth of new fruiting wood
The Best Way to Learn is to Practice: Utilize downed branches or non-fruiting trees to get used to your tools and practice how to make different-sized cuts correctly
Avoid Pruning In Wet Weather: Moisture can spread disease and pathogens into open pruning cuts; it is best to prune on sunny, dry days with no rain/snow in the forecast in the next 2-3 days
Prune Enough, Not Too Much:
Apples, Pears & Asian Pears: Aim for 10 - 20% of that year’s growth; never prune more than 30% of a tree per season (over-pruning can cause stimulation of aggressive re-growth, water sprouts)
Stone Fruits: Flower more heavily and need to be pruned more to prevent too much fruit weight from breaking limbs. Aim for 30-50% removal
Prune To Outward Facing Buds: Direct new growth to open sunlight by pruning branches to outward-facing buds. This will direct the tree to more open space.
Take A Step Back: When pruning, think about the overall structure you’d like to achieve and continuously look at the big picture while pruning to take in the whole shape
Why Prune?
Create Structure & Allow for Air Flow: Open structure and airflow allow for sunlight penetration, ripening fruit, and allow leaves to dry, which prevents disease
Remove Dead, Diseased, Damaged & Crossing Branches: The cold season is a great time to remove branches while diseases and pathogens are dormant
Manage Branch Angles & Fruitwood: Correct branch angles (45 - 60 degree angle) can handle fruit weight and are less likely to break during the season
When to Prune:
Prune on Dry, Sunny Days: No rain/snow upcoming 2-3 days
Dormant Season is Generally Jan - March: After leaves have fallen off the trees, but before the buds break and re-emerge in the spring. More Southern climates will break dormancy earlier in the season
Don’t Prune In Extreme Cold Weather: Prune after single-digit and sub-zero temperatures have passed. Give pruning cuts at least 5 days to heal before single-digit and sub-zero temperatures in the forecast
Do Not Prune During Fall/Early Winter: Trees do not have time to heal before cold temperatures arrive and are susceptible to damage. Prune larger and older trees first before younger trees as they are more tolerant of cold temperatures
Equipment Needed:
Bypass Hand Pruners: For cutting smaller branches about pencil size (Felco #2, Felco #5, Corona #4250)
Loppers: For medium-sized branches (1-2 inches)
Pruning Saw: For branches 2+ inches (Brands: Silky, Fedco & Corona)
70% Alcohol / Diluted Bleach Spray: Spray directly on your tools between trees to prevent the spreading of disease
Pole Pruner: For reaching larger branches (Corona Pruning Head)
Orchard Ladder: For reaching larger trees; (Stokes Orchard Ladders)
Sharpening Stone: Keep tools sharp to ensure a clean cut; sharp tools should be able to cut into a piece of paper cleanly (Felco 903 or Felco 906; How to Sharpen)
